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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.